Sailing away on the Batkivschyna: a sailor's account

by Olena W. Stercho

PHILADELPHIA - With a mixture of delight and envy, I watched the graceful tall ships with their billowing sails as they arrived at Philadelphia's Penn's Landing on June 23 for this year's OpSail festivities. What a beautiful sight to see, but how much better to be standing on deck as the shoreline floated by.

Little did I imagine that a scant few days later two fellow sailors from the Ukrainian American Nautical Association Inc. (UANAI) and I would be sailing away on Ukraine's very own gaff-rigged schooner, the Batkivschyna.

At the invitation of Capt. Dymytrii Birioukovitch, Genia Wolowec, John Wiaziwsky and I boarded the 89-foot Batkivschyna early on Monday, June 26, at Wilmington's Christina Riverfront for a daylong trek to Baltimore Harbor.

The yacht's complement consisted of its 15-member crew, including the captain's wife, Nina, together with a group of young teens from Delaware who, with their teacher, had tracked the Batkivschyna via a satellite link (which was lost en route to the United States) since it departed Kyiv on April 7. Indeed, because of its commitment to these students, the Batkivschyna had opted to berth in Wilmington, rather than in Philadelphia, where it had been expected.

As we glided through the early morning mist on the Christina River, at the blast of the vessel's horn, its many bridges drew open to accommodate the Batkivschyna's enormous masts. Down river, as it flowed towards its juncture with the Delaware, we passed several very large tall ships which had participated in Tall Ships Delaware (not a part of OpSail) and, ultimately, a Civil War fort at the mouth of the Christina. Shortly thereafter breakfast was served alfresco, during which passengers of non-Ukrainian origin first puzzled over, and the ultimately enjoyed, "bochok" (cured bacon/pork), "sproty" (smoked fish) and black bread, washed down with a ceremonial toast of vodka offered by Capt. Birioukovitch.

As the yacht made its way through the historic C & D Canal, which connects the Delaware River and the Chesapeake Bay, passengers enjoyed the sun, explored the vessel and assisted in steering. Meanwhile, the crew busied itself with the boat's business - the resident metalworker welded a loose stanchion (a post on deck through which lifelines run), while others worked pieces of wood for re-use, explaining that no material on the yacht was wasted.

Indeed, the Batkivschyna's evidently well-maintained rigging, sails and mechanical systems must have been key in its weathering the several storms it encountered en route to the United States. This is especially notable since the yacht lacked much conventional communications and navigational equipment. It crossed without a working single side-band radio (used for long-distance marine communications), radar, satellite link (used for both communications and positioning purposes) or EPRB (emergency beacon which broadcasts positions to satellites). Initially, it also had no charts for its sails in U.S. waters; a Chesapeake Bay chart was supplied courtesy of OpSail, and a chart of Delaware Bay was later donated privately in Baltimore).

At the end of the C & D Canal, a pilot, Capt. John Ricketson, came on board to guide the Batkivschyna to Baltimore. Pilots customarily assist large vessels in safely navigating unfamiliar bays and rivers. In Batkivschyna's case, keeping its 10-foot keel from hitting bottom in the frequently shallow Chesapeake was critical, while local knowledge in identifying its berth in Canton was useful. Capt. Ricketson's services were provided gratis by the Association of Maryland Pilots.

As the Batkivschyna entered the northern Chesapeake, Capt. Birioukovitch discussed the yacht's mission and future aspirations. He emphasized both his and the crew's commitment to its Discover Ukraine program (see, http://discover-ukraine.kiev.ua/eng/default.htm), which as previously detailed in The Ukrainian Weekly, is designed to acquaint the world with the culture and history of Ukraine, and to raise the image of independent Ukraine.

Capt. Birioukovitch spoke of his desire to over-winter the yacht in North America so that it could participate in the Great Lakes tall ships regatta next summer. He also expressed a wish to develop a working relationship with the Ukrainian diaspora in the United States and Canada, through a coordinating committee or some other means, which would hopefully lead to visits by the Batkivschyna to a variety of North American cities, and sailing and educational opportunities for both sailors and youth groups. The captain emphasized that his primary interest is in cooperation with the diaspora - and not in financial assistance.

The Batkivschyna's glorious sails were finally raised as the yacht headed cross the Bay from Rock Hall, Md., towards the mouth of Baltimore's Patapsco River. Before making the turn towards Baltimore, the Batkivschyna was powered by its engine alone because the wind was directly on its bow. Had sails been raised sooner, the 13-hour trip from Wilmington would have been considerably longer because the yacht would have been forced to tack back and forth across the bay, as it is impossible to sail directly into the wind. With the sails up and the motor still running, the Batkivschyna picked up substantial speed, appeasing worries about a late arrival in Baltimore.

As the Batkivschyna entered the Patapsco, the skies opened up with a brisk afternoon shower. The rain subsided by the time the yacht slipped past Fort McHenry, the site of the battle between the British and the Americans in the War of 1812 that inspired Francis Scott Key to compose "The Star-Spangled Banner." What a thrill it was as a Ukrainian American to sail past the birthplace of our national anthem on a vessel carrying the flag of independent Ukraine!

In Baltimore the Batkivschyna was greeted by a substantial group of Ukrainian Americans. The captain was presented with a large banner reading "Ukraine" to be hung over its side by UANAI member Roman Goy, and friends Ulana Baczynsky and Slavko Pawluk. A reception organized by the local community followed.

The Batkivschyna remained in Baltimore until June 29 and then sailed to New York for Fourth of July festivities.

While in Baltimore Capt. Birioukovitch was presented a single side band radio by Andrew Charchalis and Mr. Goy. The radio was purchased from donations made by UANAI members in memory of their fellow sailor, Taras Charchalis, who died unexpectedly on June 13 and who supported the Batkivschyna and its mission with his heart and soul.

Batkivschyna T-shirts are available online

Copyright © The Ukrainian Weekly, July 16, 2000, No. 29, Vol. LXVIII

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