A MUSICAL TRAVELOGUE: Trip to Korea proves to be unique experience

by Adrian Bryttan

When I was asked in mid-November of last year to conduct an opera concert in Korea with the Seoul Philharmonic I could not anticipate what a unique and exhilarating experience it would prove to be. This was the "comeback recital" of internationally renowned Korean soprano Jung Ae Lee, who now had returned to her home city after a successful career in the United States and Europe. The performance was set for December in Seoul's most modern hall, the LG Auditorium - so named after the Lucky Gold Star Company, a leader in South Korea's economic success.

The 14-hour time difference was only one of the problems during the planning stages. In any concert the pacing and flow are of crucial importance; I always try to put together the best sequence from the audience's point of view. And it's very important not to make it too long! The final result was a succession of vocal and orchestral showpieces leading up to the quartet from "La Bohème" in the first half and the great love duet from "Madama Butterfly" in the second half. I also programmed Myroslav Skoryk's lovely "Melodiya" (Melody) and the 1928 "Ukrainian Suite for String Orchestra" by Quincy Porter. This delightful piece is a personal favorite that I have conducted numerous times, including its first performance in Ukraine with the Lviv Philharmonic.

But, aside from the music, to travel halfway around the world to a country that was virtually isolated from the West up until 100 years ago - this offered many opportunities too good to pass up. I read several books and also learned some simple phrases from the Korean grocers in New York. In contrast to most European languages, no word roots are recognizable to us. However, I found the sounds very melodious and pleasing (although several opera singers told me that translations into Korean are awkward to sing). What really fascinated me was their phonetic (unlike Chinese and Japanese) alphabet; it was also something I could possibly learn quickly.

The 13-hour flight to Tokyo (four consecutive movies including "Gladiator"!) gave me a chance to pester several fellow passengers regarding writing and pronunciation. Later, while exploring Seoul, it became fun to practice reading license plates and shop signs. But for now, the stopover in Tokyo was an indication of things to come when I noticed in the gift shops some very strange creatures in vacuum-packed and freeze-dried bags - sea creatures with long legs or tentacles ... and I wondered what reception they would meet with in my Westernized digestive tract.

As the plane approached Seoul, my first view of the city was at night. It is surrounded by mountains and for a brief moment, the vast expanse of flickering lights below reminded me of Los Angeles. Pollution is also a big problem here. Seoul is among the 10 most populated cities in the world, and it certainly appeared to me that every inch had been put to some use. A row of stores near my hotel included everything from pharmacies and bakeries to video rentals and even a high-class 7-11 with rice rolls wrapped in seaweed.

I spent a few days in a "Korean style" room with no chairs or tables. There is a mat for sleeping, which you roll out onto the heated floor. The small pillow was filled with pine chips which crunched when you moved but was surprisingly comfortable to sleep on.

The next night we went "downtown" to watch the four big movie billboards announcing our concert. (All the expensive advertising and concert costs were underwritten by the LG Company.) With its tall business buildings and wide streets this section is very similar to areas in mid-Manhattan. I would later learn how their rush hour traffic rivals the worst to be found in American cities.

Local television announced snow in Vladivostock and warned of a "cold front moving in from Manchuria." American movies obviously are very popular, interspersed with soccer, ping-pong and badminton coverage. There seemed to be many shows for teenagers hosted by teenagers - in Korean, and also some in Chinese and Japanese. Much like the Russians in Ukraine, the Japanese occupied Korea for many years at the beginning of the 20th century and attempted to forcefully establish Japanese language and culture. Many older Koreans still hate the Japanese and are quick to point out that the Korean culture is 4,000 years old and that the Chinese and Japanese are mere upstarts in comparison.

King Sejong is revered not just as a political ruler but as the inventor of the phonetic alphabet. Under his reign the world's first celestial observatory was constructed from exactly 365 stones and the first metal, movable-type printing press was created - many years before Guttenberg. General Li constructed the world's first ironclad ships in 1592, defeating the Japanese navy centuries before the Monitor and Merrimac.

My daily trips with my little Korean phrase book amused the grocery store owners because of all the hand signals I was still forced to use. You can find most familiar items, but prices are as high as here. However, there were things in the freezer section that literally looked like flattened roadkill - vacuum-packed flesh with a few bones - I had no idea if it once swam in the sea, hopped on all fours, or was shot down from the sky.

My hotel had a pool and extensive sauna, complete with barber and masseurs. One must wear a bathing cap and most swimmers put on goggles as well. While all Koreans have jet black hair on their heads, some consider it trendy to dye it lighter. Here also I realized the luck of chromosomes: I was the only man with chest hair!

By now, piano rehearsals were in full swing. Because the accompanist had worked for several years in Austria, I was able to speak German with him and also Italian with two of the other singers. And then the first rehearsal with the Seoul Philharmonic finally arrived. Their principal cellist recognized me from our days together in the South Bend Symphony, where I worked as concertmaster.

The orchestra is all Korean, although many have studied abroad, especially in New York conservatories. The program content, with many selections and styles, was difficult for an orchestra that does not do much vocal accompanying. So my work was really cut out for me with only three rehearsals to get things ship shape. In addition I had to devote several evenings with score paper, scissors and tape correcting mistakes in the parts and changing the orchestration.

After our final rehearsal, the Korean TV crews started setting up mikes and cameras in the hall. LG Auditorium seats 1,200 and has very fine acoustics. (Kathleen Battle had opened its first season this year, and we had seen a production of "All That Jazz" a few days earlier.) We had a full house, and the audience was most receptive. The variety of composers from Mozart to Berlioz and Verdi to Puccini captivated the public. American tenor Drew Alan Slatton was also in great form singing "Nessun dorma." The orchestral pieces that drew the best response were the two Ukrainian selections and also the rarely performed "Intermezzo" from Mascagni's "L'Amico Fritz."

As we walked out for the encores following a standing ovation, I borrowed the concertmaster's violin and played "O Holy Night" with the soprano, tenor and harp. This was very warmly received since Seoul is more than 50 percent Christian; at night you see lit-up church crosses every few blocks. Following a second encore, which was a patriotic Korean song of yearning for reunification, we ended the evening with the rousing toast "Libiamo" from "La Traviata."

The post-concert reception was done on a grand scale. The tables were laden with seafood, fruit and canapés as well as Korean specialties. Several hundred people heard the Italian ambassador praise the concert and performers. I was happy to see the Ukrainian consul, Dmytro Renkas, whom I had invited to attend.

Recently a children's choir from Odesa had performed in Seoul. Consul Renkas introduced me to a member of the National Assembly, Young Jin Kim, who heads the Korean-Ukrainian Friendship Committee and is also the chairman of the World Christian Parliamentarians Association.

After the official reception, we celebrated far into the morning at a night club, taking turns singing Neapolitan songs and Elvis hits with the small band.

Before my trip I had heard about the politeness and grace of the Koreans. But there is something deeper than merely bowing or taking off your shoes when entering a home. On numerous occasions I would see subtle signs of respect not only from employees and servants but among everyone as well. Rarely could one see outbursts of anger or shows of hostility that are almost taken for granted here. For example, it was refreshing to see construction workers calmly studying blueprints and carrying out their many demanding tasks - all in nearly complete silence.

In the past, the Koreans maintained Confucianist views even more strictly than the Chinese. Most relationships were understood in submissiveness to a hierarchy: younger to elder brother, son to father, and wife to husband. The result was that in many families women had to walk a few steps behind and also could not start eating until all the men had finished. Things are changing, but the importance of the family is as strong as ever.

I knew that President Kim Dae Jung had been awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for his work towards reunification and aid to North Korea. However, he is not too popular now because, as in unified Germany, there are economic hardships to be met as a result.

My final three days I relaxed in the coastal city of Dong Hae, bordering the Sea of Japan. The impressive seascapes reminded me of the rugged crashing surf in northern California. Fresh raw fish, squid and eel could be found in every store. On my final day I was allowed to videotape a Buddhist ceremony high up in the mountain monastery.

On the return flight, a young American couple was bringing back their adopted Korean baby. Many people were talking with them. It was poignant to observe this newly formed family on its way to America after just having seen an age-old Buddhist ritual for the dead. East meets West, and life goes on.

I had met some wonderful people, made many friends and contacts, and had performed at a marvelous concert. I had gotten a taste of a different culture on the other side of the globe. But perhaps most significant was the sense of wonder and appreciation that I experienced for the diversity and beauty of another approach to life.

Adrian Bryttan is a professional conductor, violinist and faculty member at the Manhattan School of Music. The publication Wagner Notes (December 2000) carried a review and interview by Mr. Bryttan on the occasion of the performance of Lorin Maazel's "The Rings Without Words," a voiceless symphonic synthesis of music from Wagner's "Ring," with the New York Philharmonic.

Copyright © The Ukrainian Weekly, February 11, 2001, No. 6, Vol. LXIX

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